Update my dinner status, I'm making this tonight.

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Servings: 1 Servings
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Stage 1. Dissolve the yeast and honey (or sugar) in half the tepid water.

Stage 2. On your largest available clean surface (even a big bowl will do if surfaces are limited), make a pile of the flour, semolina flour and salt. With one hand, make a well in the centre. (If possible, it is preferable to warm the flour and semolina flour.)

Stage 3. Pour all the dissolved yeast mixture into the centre and with four fingers of one hand make circular movements, from the centre working out-

wards, slowly bringing in the dry ingredients until all the yeast mixture is soaked up. Then pour the other half of the tepid water into the centre and

gradually incorporate all the flour to make a moist dough. (Certain flours may need a little more water, so don't be afraid to adjust the quantities.)

Stage 4. Kneading! This is the best bit, just rolling, pushing and folding the dough over and over for 5 minutes. This develops the structure of the dough and the gluten. If any of the dough sticks to your hands, just rub them together with a little extra flour.

You can do Stages 2, 3 and 4 in a food mixer if you like, using the dough hook attachment.

Stage 5. Flour both your hands now, and Lightly flour the top of the dough. Make it into a roundish shape and place on a baking tray. Score the dough with a knife - this allows it to relax and prove more quickly.

Stage 6. Leave the bread to prove for the first time. Basically we want it to double in size. This is probably the best time to preheat the oven (see oven

temperatures for each bread variation). You want a warm, moist, draught-free place for the quickest prove, for example near the cooker, in the airing cup-board, in the plate warmer of a cooker or just in a warm room, and you can cover it with clingfilm if you want to speed it up. This proving process matures the flour flavour and should take approximately 40 minutes to an hour and a half, depending on the conditions.

Let's just talk about proving so you know what's going on. The yeast is now feeding on the honey or sugar in the warmth of the tepid water. In theory the

three things that all bacteria need to grow are heat, moisture and food. Any excess of these three things will kill the yeast (as well as salt, which we have

used to season the bread - it's not half so nice without it, but it does slow down the proving to some extent).

Stage 7. Right, it's double the size and time to knock it back. Knead and punch the dough, knocking all the air out of it, for about a minute.

Stage 8. Shape the dough into whatever shape you want - round, flat, filled, or whatever (see the variations to follow) - and leave to prove a second time in a warm place until the dough is double its size.

The important thing is not to lose your confidence now; if you don't think it's proved enough, leave it a bit longer and check the warmth or for any draughts.

Stage 9. Now it's time to cook your loaf. After all your hard work, don't spoil

your efforts. You want to keep the air inside the loaf, so don't knock it, put it very gently into the oven and don't slam the door. Bake according to the

recipe time and temperature given in the variations which follow, or until it's cooked. You can tell if it's cooked by tapping its bottom (if it's in a tin you'll have to take it out) - if it sounds hollow it's cooked, if it doesn't then pop it back in for a little longer.

Stage 10. Place the bread on a rack to cool - for cooking time see each recipe variation. You're going to love this bread!

Focaccia

For 2 large or 4 smaller focaccia

This is my favourite Italian flatbread. It is not very difficult to make. Follow the basic recipe until Stage 8, then split the dough into half or quarters. Roll or push it out to an oval shape roughly 1 1/2cm/1/2 inch thick; don't fuss around for perfection, it's supposed to be rough and rustic, so what a great excuse for a beginner! Place on a baking tray liberally dusted with semolina, and smear evenly with one of the toppings shown below. Finally, make those characteristic holes by pushing all your fingers deep into the dough many times, which allows the flavour of the topping to penetrate. After about 45 minutes it will prove to that classic 3cm/lV4 inches high.

At basic recipe Stage 9, bake for about 15 minutes at your oven's highest temperature until ready. As soon as the focaccia comes out of the oven, feed it with a good drizzle of your very best olive oil and a light scattering of sea salt. You can eat the focaccia as soon as it has slightly cooled.

Below are some toppings that I like, but it's real fun to do your own thing.

Toppings mustn't be too heavy, just a light scattering of interesting flavours.

Try marinated sun-dried tomatoes, black or green olives, mixed herbs, herb oils, some interesting cheeses (not too much, though; the Italians would

probably use up any old dry cheese for this).

The following amounts are for the whole quantity of bread but you may well wish to, say, make 4 different toppings for 4 small focaccias, in which case just divide the amount accordingly.

This is the easiest topping and very tasty. Finely chop 1 clove of garlic and a good bunch of basil. Add roughly three times as much oil as you have of the

basil mixture, a squeeze of lemon juice, salt, freshly ground black pepper and sometimes a crushed dried chilli - gives nice warmth! Be subtle.

Potato and Rosemary Topping

Wash about 15 new potatoes and slice as thinly as possible. Put in salty (or minty) boiling water for 2 minutes. Drain the spuds, place in a bowl, and coat

with a generous amount of your best olive oil. Season with salt and freshly ground black pepper, add 1 finely chopped clove of garlic and a handful of

chopped fresh rosemary. Smear and push the mixture all over the bread. This is really nice if you flick some rosemary on top before baking, for a really

rustic look.

I'm a real fried onion boy myself! This topping is tasty, light and fragrant.

Peel and halve, from the core to the top, 3 average size red onions (or about 6 shallots), then slice as thinly as you can. Heat a frying-pan with a good lug

of oil. Add 1 finely sliced clove of garlic, a good handful of thyme leaves, and then add the onions or shallots. Add a pinch of salt and fry fast, keeping it on the move, for 4 minutes (the idea is to cook fast and caramelize the onions, but not to over-colour or burn them). Next, add about 3 tablespoons

of red wine vinegar and simmer for a further 4 minutes. Add some salt and freshly ground black pepper and a little extra virgin olive oil, smear every-thing over your bread, then throw some thyme leaves over it. Looks great!

Beer Bread

For 1 large loaf

At Stage 1 you exchange the water for your favourite beer and follow the method until Stage 8. Make 6 equal-sized balls and place them next to each

other in a greased round cake tin (5 round the edge and one in the middle).

Sprinkle with either a light dusting of flour or some caraway seeds. Then prove until doubled in size (the balls will prove into each other). At Stage 9

bake at 225°C/425°F/gas 7 for 20-25 minutes or until done. Allow to cool for at least 45 minutes.

This bread doesn't have a really strong taste of beer - just the mellow, malty undertones coming through.

Twister Bread

I like this bread made with purple pesto, but green pesto is fine. (The recipe for pesto is on page 232.) Follow the basic dough recipe. At Stage 8, divide

the dough into 2 equal parts. Roll or push out each piece of the dough into a squarish sheet l c m / 1 / 2 inch high and 30cm/12 inches long. Smear pesto

generously over the sheet of dough and roll up like a swiss roll. Then with a really sharp knife cut across into 4cm/lV2 inch slices. Place the slices close

together on a greased baking tray, cut side upward (rather like Chelsea buns).

At Stage 9 bake at 225°C/425°F/gas 7 for 15-20 minutes. Allow to cool for 30 minutes before eating.

Cottage Bread

For 2 loaves

Follow the basic recipe until Stage 8, then split the dough into 2 equal parts. Make a rough ball out of each part and fold the bottom sides into the bottom

centre, which should improve the shape. Place the loaves on a baking tray liberally dusted with semolina, then gently press down on the top of the loaves to flatten them slightly. Sprinkle generously with flour, and then with a sharp knife score 4 lines on the top. Prove for about 45 minutes to an hour.

At basic recipe Stage 9, bake for 20-25 minutes at 225°C/425°F/gas 7.

When ready, leave for at least an hour before eating.

Snap Bread

This bread is great for using up leftover bits of dough, so you don't need to make the full basic recipe quantity unless you want loads of them. But they do keep in an airtight container for a couple of weeks and freeze really well.

After basic recipe Stage 7, roll your dough to a thin sheet, about lcm/1/2 inch high and 30cm/12 inches long. Flour the top of the bread liberally and

use a large knife or a pizza cutter to slice lcm/V2 inch strands. Place these on a baking tray sprinkled liberally with semolina. Prove for 1/2 an hour. At

Stage 9, bake for about 10 minutes at 200°C/400°F/gas 6 (you want to dry them out so that they stay crispy). This bread is wicked if friends come round

for a drink and you serve some humous, guacamole, black olive dips, salsas, relishes and all that sort of thing.

Ciabatta

For 3 ciabattas

Follow the basic recipe, adding around 6 tablespoons of olive oil at Stage 8. Then split the dough into 3 equal parts. Using both hands, roll each portion

into a 25cm/10 inch sausage shape, then, using the heel of your hand, press every inch all the way along the bread to widen and flatten it. The shape at

this stage should be roughly 30cm/12 inches long, 2 1/2cm/l inch high and 10cm/4 inches wide. Place the dough on a baking tray liberally dusted with

semolina. Dust the dough with flour and score about 5 times, at an angle. Prove for about 45 minutes and, at basic recipe Stage 9, bake for about 25

minutes at 225°C/425°F/gas 7 until ready. Allow to cool for about 1/2 an hour before eating it.

Rolls

For about 12 medium rolls

Before you start to make these rolls, here are some suggestions to tickle your fancy, some quite easy, some easier. But I'd love to think that you might

experiment with your own ideas for flavours. Don't forget to get your flavours sorted before you start to make the dough.

Follow the basic recipe until Stage 4, then split the dough into sections, one for each different type of roll you want. Immediately scrunch your chosen flavour well into the dough (all flavours should be at a warm room temperature), then allow to prove. This will take about 40 minutes. When double the size, knock back as at Stage 7. At Stage 8, bearing in mind that these will double in size, make into the shapes and sizes you want (either a round or a fat cigar shape would be good). Place on a baking tray liberally dusted with semolina, lightly flour the top of the rolls and score them with a sharp knife. At Stage 9 bake at 225°C/425°F/gas 7. Check the rolls after 10 minutes - the cooking time will vary according to the size of the rolls. Place the rolls on a rack and leave for at least 15 minutes before eating.

Plain or Simply Scented Rolls

The fact is a plain roll is lovely - you don't have to do anything apart from shape it, prove it and bake it. However, you can scent the dough with some

chopped fresh herbs such as thyme, rosemary, oregano, summer or winter savory, marjoram, basil or chives, or some pounded spices such as coriander seeds, caraway seeds, chillies, celery seeds, mustard seeds or fennel seeds.

You can use them singly, or make a marriage of two. The last thing I want to do is to give you weights or amounts; this should be to your own taste.

Personally I am more generous with the herbs than with the spices, as I think the latter should be more subtle.

Roosted Hazelnut and Apricot Rolls

These rolls need roughly equal quantities of hazelnuts and dried apricots (the moister apricots are better for this purpose). You should aim for a total amount of nuts and apricots roughly the equivalent of a quarter of the weight of the dough used, but the amount can happily vary in either direction. Quite simply, roast your hazelnuts in the oven with a drizzle of olive oil and a pinch of salt until golden (this does not take long and it's dead easy to burn them). It's nice to crush or chop half the hazelnuts finely, to get the flavour in there, and crack the other half for texture and looks. The same idea applies to the dried apricots when you are chopping them.

Don't turn your nose up at the thought of this one (like my mum did!). It's a really interesting flavour. I first made this bread when I had some leftover spicy roast pumpkin. I chopped it up and whacked it into the dough, and I was well chuffed with the resuLts. It was a great addition to a summer lunch, served still warm with a hunk of runny Brie, a pile of salad and a beer. For this recipe you will need a quantity of the squash from the recipe on page

148 - again, aim for an amount of squash roughly equivalent to a quarter of the weight of the dough to be used.

Pizzas

For 4 pizzas

I make pizzas all the time at home; I like to do them fairly thin because I think that way you get a better balance of topping and base. (I always eat

one and freeze the other three, half cooked for 5 minutes with no topping - it makes it so easy when you come home from work late.) Personally I don't

like a mouthful of dough like you get with American pizzas; it should be quite crisp and delicate. I'm giving you my favourite toppings (each enough for 1

pizza) but obviously you'll all have your own favourites.

First prepare your chosen topping (see the suggestions below). Follow the basic recipe until Stage 8, then divide the dough into 4 equal pieces. Roll each portion into a ball, lightly flour the work surface and roll (or push) it out (always rolling away from you and turning 45° after every roll). Roll to roughly 3/4cm/3/8 inch high (to prove to about lcm/1/2 inch high), bearing in mind pizzas do not have to be perfectly round. Place on a sheet of lightly greased kitchen foil or a baking tray and add the toppings. It is not necessary to prove thin pizzas as you do bread, so 10 minutes proving should do the trick, and they will continue to expand in the oven. At Stage 9 bake for about 10 minutes at 240°C/475°F/gas 9, until the dough looks crisp and

golden and the toppings look cooked. Eat as soon as possible.

If you are using a pizza base you have frozen, you need not thaw it. Add your topping to the frozen base, and cook for an extra 5 minutes at

225'C/425"F/gas 7.

Lightly smear the pizza base with tomato sauce (see page 237). Roughly scatter with a generous handful of whole or torn basil leaves. Break up some mozzarella and scatter the pieces evenly(ish) round the pizza. Add some freshly ground black pepper. Cook for about 10 minutes at 240°C/475°F/gas

9. When ready, drizzle with your best olive oil.

I usually use a pestle and mortar for this but you can get the same effect by chopping finely. Smash up a handful of washed thyme and a good pinch of

salt. When it looks like a coarse paste, add 1/2 a clove of garlic and smash that into a paste too. Add a squeeze of lemon juice and about 2 tablespoons of

your best olive oil. Now prepare the artichokes: 1 or 2 artichokes per pizza will be plenty, and you can either use fresh ones (see page 137) or the pre-

pared ones available in jars. With a sharp knife slice them first in half, then as thinly as possible lengthwise. Immediately toss them gently in the thyme

mixture to prevent discoloration, then evenly smear the pizza with the mixture. At the last minute I sometimes mix a handful of rocket in with it. Bake

in the oven for 10 minutes at 240°C/475°F/gas 9, then roughly shave some nice long bits of Parmesan over the top (I use a potato peeler at home).

This is a quick topping. Wash 3 plum tomatoes (I don't take the skin off but if you want to, simply score, place in boiling water for 15 seconds, then peel).

Slice in half, scoop out the pips and core, and roughly chop. Place them in a bowl and season with salt (not too much, remember the pancetta is quite

salty), freshly ground black pepper and 1 small, fresh, finely sliced chilli (you can use a fried chilli but be careful because they're hot). Add 1/4 of a clove of garlic, finely chopped, 1/2 a handful of whole fresh oregano leaves and 1/2 a

handful of chopped fresh oregano. Add a couple of drips of red wine vinegar.

Toss the mixture and smear over the pizza (do this fairly quickly, as the salt will draw the water out of the tomatoes and the mix must not be too watery).

Pancetta is available from most delis or good supermarkets, but if you can't get it, use dry smoked streaky bacon. Lay about 6 strips of really thinly sliced pancetta across the pizza. Cook for 10 minutes at 240°C/475°F/gas 9.