Preheat oven to 375F. Combine first 8 ingredients in a bowl; stir well. Combine buttermilk, egg substitute, molasses and 2 tablespoons melted margarine in a bowl; stir well. Add to flour mixture, stirring until smooth. Melt two tablespoons margarine in a 9-inch cast iron skillet. Stir in 1/3 cup brown sugar; cook over medium heat one minute. Remove from heat, sprinkle with walnuts. Peel and core pears. Cut each in half lengthwise. Cut each half into thin slices, cutting to, but not through, stem end. Fan pear halves; place, core sides up, on top of brown sugar mixture in skillet. Pour batter over pears; bake at 375F for 35 minutes, or until wooden pick inserted in center comes out clean. Let cool in pan 5 minutes on a wire rack. Loosen cake from sides of pan using a narrow spatula. Invert onto a cake plate. Garnish with cinnamon sticks and pear slices if desired. Recipe by: Cooking Light Jan/Feb 97 Posted to EAT-L Digest by "Iris E. Dunaway" on Sep 7, 1997