In a 2-quart heavy saucepan bring water to a boil. Add grits in a stream, stirring, and cook, covered, over moderately low heat, stirring occasionally, 5 minutes, or until thickened. Stir in butter, tasso, and salt to taste and spread grits in baking dish, 13 by 19 by 2 inches. Cool grits and chill, covered, overnight. Grits may be made 2 days ahead and kept chilled, covered. Have flour, eggs, and bread crumbs ready in separate shallow dishes. Cut grits into twenty-four 4-by 1/2-inch batons and dredge in flour. Dip batons in eggs and dredge in bread crumbs. Batons may be prepared up to this point 8 hours ahead and kept chilled, uncovered, on a baking sheet. In a deep skillet or heavy kettle heat 1 1/2 inches oil to 375F. on a deep-fat thermometer and fry batons in batches, turning, until golden, about 1 minute. Transfer batons with a slotted spoon to paper towels to drain. Serves 6. Gourmet May 1994