Cover the haddock with cold water in a large pan.

Bring to the boil and simmer 4-5 mins. Remove the fish with a slotted spoon and flake into chunks then set aside.

Add the onions, bayleaf and potatoes to the pan with plenty of pepper.

Cover and cook over a moderate heat for about 12-15 minutes until the vegetables are tender.

Remove the pan from the heat and, using a potato masher, roughly mash the contents, keeping some of the texture.

Add the milk and the butter then bring to the boil and simmer for a couple of minutes.

Add the fish, reheat gently for 2-3 minutes, season to taste then serve piping hot in warmed soup bowls with a swirl of cream and some chives.