In a food processor, combine the onion, scallions, chiles, garlic, five-spice powder, allspice, pepper, thyme, nutmeg and salt; process to a coarse paste. With the machine on, add the the soy sauce and oil in a steady stream. Pour the marinade into a large, shallow dish, add the chicken and turn and rub to coat. Cover and refrigerate for at least 4 hours or overnight, turning chicken every now and then. Bring the chicken to room temperature before proceeding.

Fire up the grill. Grill the chicken over a medium-hot (charcoal), low (gas) fire, turning occasionally, basting now and then with the leftover sauce, until well browned and cooked through, 35 to 40 minutes. Add wet wood chunks and cover grill for authentic deep smoky flavor. Transfer the chicken to a platter and serve.

Jerking notes:

Use pimento, oak or mesquite wood--never use charcoal or gas alone.

Soak wood for at least 2 hours before grilling to keep from burning and to create a good smoke.

When using a gas grill, keep the temperature low.

Use a coffee grinder to grind whole allspice berries.

Marinate meat in a sealed plastic bag placed in a shallow pan (rub in the marinade from outside the bag).

Rub jerk paste on with your fingers (wearing gloves) to get full coverage.

Don't marinate too long or seasonings will change meat's texture.

For milder seasoning, remove seeds and membranes from Scotch bonnet, or use a milder pepper like the jalapeno or serano (though it won't have the authenticity nor intensity of the jerk flavors).

Don't store jerk more that a month.

Optional -- you can adjust and dilute your marinade with soy sauce, vinegar, rum or beer.