In a medium bowl, beat eggs until frothy. Beat in buttermilk, melted butter and (if using) vanilla, until well blended. Add the flour, sugar, baking powder, baking soda, and salt to liquid ingredients, and quickly mix just enough to make a creamy batter with some lumps; do not overbeat. (It's normal for the pancake batter to be lumpy after you stir it.)

Heat a heavy-bottomed skillet or griddle over high heat. (If using an electric griddle, heat to 375 degrees F.) Test skillet by sprinkling a few drops of water on it.. When water forms beads and dances over skillet surface, it is hot enough. Lightly grease the griddle with bacon grease, vegetable oil, or spray with nonstick cooking spray.

Pour about 1/4 cup batter into skillet for each pancake, making sure there is space between them; pancakes will expand slightly during cooking. Cook pancakes until batter is set, bubbles uniformly cover the top and have burst, and bottoms are golden brown, about 2 minutes. Flip pancakes and cook until golden brown on the other side, about 1 minutes more. (They usually take about 1/2 the time on the second side. This will depend on how thick you've made your pancakes.) Repeat with remaining batter, adding more oil to pan as necessary. Serve immediately or keep warm (* see note) until all the pancakes are cooked.

Serve with butter spread on top and drizzled with warmed maple syrup, fruit compotes, etc.

Makes 12 pancakes; serves 4.

* Note: To keep pancakes warm -- Place a large cooling rack (sprayed with vegetable cooking spray) on a sheet pan. Place the pan and the rack in a 200-degree oven. Place pancakes on the rack in a single layer, uncovered, for up to 20 minutes (any longer--they will start to dry out.) The warm oven keeps the pancakes hot enough to melt a pat of butter, and leaving the pancakes uncovered keeps them from becoming soggy.