Preheat the oven to 350 degrees.

Bring water and salt to a boil in a large pot.

Stir in: basmati rice, cinnammon stick, cloves, peppercorns, cardamom seeds.

Cook uncovered, stirring occasionally, until the rice is almost tender, about 10 minutes. Drain and let stand in a sieve until ready to use. (Leave the spices in the rice.)

Melt 8 tablespoons of butter in a large ovenproof non-stick skillet over meadium heat. Spoon off 3 tablespoons and reserve. Add sliced onions and saffron to the remaining butter in the skillet. Cook, stirring over medium heat until the onions are golden, about 8 minutes. Spread the onions in an even layer in the skillet. Stir apricots and cherries or golden raisins into the cooked rice. Spoon the rice over the onions; smooth the top of the rice with the back of a large spoon and press down very firmly to pack it. Drizzle the reserved butter evenly over the top. Cover with a double layer of aluminum foil, crimping the edges and pressing down on the top.

Bake for 1 hour. Let stand, covered, for 10 minutes. Uncover and invert a large round platter over the skillet. Protecting your hands with a dish towel, turn the skillet and platter over, allowing the rice to drop onto the platter. Sprinkle with chopped pistachios.