1. To make the cheese, bring the milk to a boil in a heavy saucepan. Remove from heat and add the lemon juice. Stir until curdles begin to form, then let stand 5 min. Pour curds and whey through a fine-mesh sieve lined with a double layer of cheesecloth. When cool enough to handle, squeeze out as much liquid as possible. Flatten the curd to 1", then set between two plates with a can to weight the top, and let sit 20 min. When drained and formed, cut into 1/2" cubes.

2. Heat oil in a large skillet and season the pan briefly with the cumin seeds. Add the cheese and cook until lightly browned. Remove from the pan and reserve.

3. Saute onion until translucent, then add garlic and remaining seasonings for a brief stir. Add the greens and cover the pan to allow them to wilt. Season as desired with salt (if you wish you do the pureed version, this is where you would puree the greens and onion).

4. Leave on the heat until all liquid is evaporated. Stir in the yogurt, bring just to a simmer and then remove immediately from heat. Stir in the browned cheese and cream if desired, and serve.