Cut the chicken into 1/2-by-4-inch strips; you should have about 30 strips. Refrigerate in a large bowl until needed.

To make rub: Heat 3 tablespoons of the oil in a small nonstick skillet or saute pan over medium heat. Cook the onion, uncovered, stirring ocasionally, for 4 to 5 minutes, or until deep brown. Do not let the onion scorch. Add the garlic and cumin and mustard seeds and saute for 30 seconds. Do not brown the garlic.

Remove from the heat and mix in the lime juice, jalapeno, fresh herbs, salt, and pepper. Transfer the mixutre to a food processor (a small one is best) and , with the machine running, drizzle in the remaining 3 tablespoons oil and the water and process to a paste-like consistency.

Add the rub to the chicken strips and mix well. Marinated, refrigerated, for at least 4 hours or preferable overnight.

Meanwhile, to make the spiced yogurt dip: Mix all the dip ingredients together in a small bowl until smooth. Refrigerate until ready to serve.

When ready to cook the chicken, soak the bamboo skewers in water for at least 1 hour. Prepare a medium-hot fire in a charcoal grill, or preheat a gas grill to medium-high. Oil the grill. Thread the chicken on the skewers. Grill for about 2 to 3 minutes per side, or until cooked through.

Serve the skewers on a platter, with the yogurt dip in a small bowl in the center for guests to help themselves. Garnish with cilantro sprigs and lime weges for squeezing.