Serves 6 to 8 as an appetizer From "Big Flavors of the Hot Sun" by Chris Schlesinger and John Willoughby Photography by Steven Rothfeld William Morrow and Co., 485 pages, $27.50 ISBN 0-688-11842-9 I like to grill chicken wings for three reasons. First, they are easy and fast; second, they have an almost limitless versatility as to the flavors you can combine with them; and third, you have to pick them up with your hands to eat them. That kind of sets the mood for the rest of the meal, letting folks know right up front that they can relax. In this dish the wings are coated with white pepper - preferably freshly cracked, but if not youll still be all right - and everything else is added after the wings are cooked. Its sort of like post-marinating, applying the flavors after cooking instead of before in order to preserve their individual dimensions. As you take your first bite, see how many different, clearly defined tastes you get. 1. Sprinkle the wings with pepper and salt. Grill over a medium-hot fire until they are well browned, 5 to 7 minutes, turning a couple of times. 2. Take the largest wing off the fire and check for doneness by eating it. 3. Remove the wings from the grill and place in a large bowl. 4. Add all the remaining ingredients, toss well, and serve. Serving Suggestions: Try these with Watercress and Crab Salad with Mangoes and Fish Sauce, and Savory Watermelon and Pineapple Salad. (Included in Book). RMeacham@pseg.com CHILE-HEADS ARCHIVES From the Chile-Heads recipe list. Downloaded from Glens MM Recipe Archive, G Internet.