Filet the fish (or have the fishmonger do it), leaving the skin on. If you want a completely boneless filet, use tweezers or clean needle-nose pliers to remove the dozen or so pin bones running down the middle of the filet near the head end. Place the filets skin side down in a glass or stainless steel baking pan or other deep dish. Combine the salt and sugar and sprinkle a generous layer all over the fish, more thickly on the thickest part of the meat, a little less on the tail and edges. Use about a tablespoon in all for a 2-pound fish, the full amount for a 3-pounder. Cover and refrigerate 8 hours to overnight. Drain off any juices that have collected in the pan. Add cold water to cover, let stand 15 minutes, drain, and repeat. Drain well and pat dry with paper towels. For a smoother surface, lay the filets on a wire rack in a cool, breezy place for 15 minutes to dry. Build a small charcoal fire (10 to 12 briquets) at one edge of a covered grill and let it burn down until covered with gray ash. Meanwhile, soak 1/2 cup of the smoking chips in water. Cover the grill and adjust the vents on the top and bottom to maintain a temperature of about 200 degrees F. Drain the chips and add them to the coals; replace the grill with one handle nearest the fire, to facilitate adding smoking chips. Lay the filets on the opposite side from the fire, with the thickest parts nearest the heat. Cover and cook until the fish is opaque, 30 to 40 minutes. Add some dry smoking chips to the fire every 15 minutes or so to maintain smoke and heat. Serve hot or cold. PER SERVING: 285 calories, 36 g protein, 0 g carbohydrate, 15 g fat (3 g saturated), 105 mg cholesterol, approximately 240 mg sodium, 0 g fiber. From an article by Jay Harlow, The San Francisco Chronicle, 7/1/92. Posted by Stephen Ceideburg