Published July 1, 2010.
Any 10-year-old can make the typical dry, bland banana bread. But if you want to make a moist, tender loaf with over-the-top banana flavor, you need to think like a mad scientist.
The Problem
Banana breads make great use of overripe fruit, but the banana flavor gets lost in the oven. And depending on how ripe those bananas really were, the crumb varies from cottony and tough to dense and damp.
The Goal
Our ideal banana bread is simple enough—a moist, tender loaf that really tastes like bananas.
The Solution
During our initial tests of existing recipes, we discovered that double the dose of bananas in our favorite test recipe was both a blessing and a curse. The abundance of fruit made for intense banana flavor, but the weight and moisture sank the loaf and gave it a cakelike structure. Looking to add banana flavor without moisture, we tried a variety of unusual techniques. Tasters quickly dismissed loaves made with banana chips (too dry), roasted bananas (too time-consuming and too wet), and simmered bananas (too jamlike). After significant trial and error, we remembered a method for removing moisture from waterlogged eggplant: microwaving it. We placed our bananas in a glass bowl and microwaved them for a few minutes, then transferred the now-pulpy fruit to a sieve to drain. We then simmered the banana liquid in a saucepan until it reduced and incorporated it into the batter. The concentrated liquid infused the batter with ripe, intensely fruity banana flavor. Furthermore, the extra moisture helped create a crumb that was tender through and through, without being framed by overly crusty sides.
A few minor tweaks completed the recipe. The molasses notes of brown sugar better complemented the bananas than granulated sugar. Vanilla worked well with the banana’s faintly boozy, rumlike flavor, as did swapping out the oil for the nutty richness of butter. We also added toasted walnuts to the batter for a pleasing crunch.
Be sure to use very ripe, heavily speckled (or even black) bananas in this recipe. This recipe can be made using 5 thawed frozen bananas; since they release a lot of liquid naturally, they can bypass the microwaving in step 2 and go directly into the fine-mesh strainer. Do not use a thawed frozen banana in step 4; it will be too soft to slice. Instead, simply sprinkle the top of the loaf with sugar. The test kitchen’s preferred loaf pan measures 8½ by 4½ inches; if you use a 9 by 5-inch loaf pan, start checking for doneness five minutes earlier than advised in the recipe. The texture is best when the loaf is eaten fresh, but it can be stored (cool completely first), covered tightly with plastic wrap, for up to 3 days.
1. Adjust oven rack to middle position and heat oven to 350 degrees. Spray 8½ by 4½-inch loaf pan with nonstick cooking spray. Whisk flour, baking soda, and salt together in large bowl.
2. Place 5 bananas in microwave-safe bowl; cover with plastic wrap and cut several steam vents in plastic with paring knife. Microwave on high power until bananas are soft and have released liquid, about 5 minutes. Transfer bananas to fine-mesh strainer placed over medium bowl and allow to drain, stirring occasionally, 15 minutes (you should have ½ to ¾ cup liquid).
3. Transfer liquid to medium saucepan and cook over medium-high heat until reduced to ¼ cup, about 5 minutes. Remove pan from heat, stir reduced liquid into bananas, and mash with potato masher until fairly smooth. Whisk in butter, eggs, brown sugar, and vanilla.
4. Pour banana mixture into flour mixture and stir until just combined with some streaks of flour remaining. Gently fold in walnuts, if using. Scrape batter into prepared pan. Slice remaining banana diagonally into ¼-inch-thick slices. Shingle banana slices on top of either side of loaf, leaving 1½-inch-wide space down center to ensure even rise. Sprinkle granulated sugar evenly over loaf.
5. Bake until toothpick inserted in center of loaf comes out clean, 55 to 75 minutes. Cool bread in pan on wire rack 15 minutes, then remove loaf from pan and continue to cool on wire rack. Serve warm or at room temperature.
View line-by-line Nutrition Insights™: Discover which ingredients contribute the calories/sodium/etc.
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Serving Size: 1 Serving (213g) | ||
Recipe Makes: 8 Servings | ||
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Calories: 646 | ||
Calories from Fat: 381 (59%) | ||
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Amt Per Serving | % DV | |
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Total Fat 42.4g | 56 % | |
Saturated Fat 23.2g | 116 % | |
Monounsaturated Fat 11.2g | ||
Polyunsanturated Fat 4.6g | ||
Cholesterol 197.8mg | 61 % | |
Sodium 624.1mg | 22 % | |
Potassium 464.7mg | 12 % | |
Total Carbohydrate 61.8g | 18 % | |
Dietary Fiber 3.6g | 14 % | |
Sugars, other 58.3g | ||
Protein 9g | 13 % | |
Powered by: USDA Nutrition Database Disclaimer: Nutrition facts are derived from linked ingredients (shown at left in colored bullets) and may or may not be complete. Always consult a licensed nutritionist or doctor if you have a nutrition-related medical condition. |
Calories per serving: 646
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