Buttermilk Biscuits

Freeze the butter and heat the oven. Cut the butter into small chunks and place in the freezer. Arrange a rack in the middle of the oven and heat to 425°F. Blend the dry ingredients. Place the flour, salt, baking powder and baking soda in the bowl of a food processor fitted with the blade attachment. Pulse until combined, 4 to 5 pulses. (Alternatively, whisk together in a medium bowl.) Work in the butter. Remove the butter from the freezer and scatter it over the flour mixture. Pulse until the mixture is crumbly and the largest pieces of butter are no bigger than a pea, 6 to 8 pulses. (Alternatively, work the butter into the flour with a pastry cutter, fork, or finger tips.) Add the buttermilk. Pour in the buttermilk and pulse until the mixture just comes together, 4 or 5 pulses. It should not be completely blended but look like gravel. (Alternatively, stir until the buttermilk is just barely incorporated and a rough mass is formed.) Fold and shape the dough. Sprinkle a work surface with a little flour and transfer the dough onto it. Working quickly, gather the shaggy mass together, pressing it lightly to form a rectangle. Cut crosswise into 3 even sections. Stack each section on top of the other. Using the heel of your hand, quickly and firmly press the sections together. Repeat, cutting, stacking, and pressing together once more. Roll and cut the dough. Roll the dough into a rectangle about 1/2" thick. Using a sharp knife, cut the dough into 6 pieces for larger biscuits, or 8 pieces for smaller biscuits. Bake for 12 minutes. Place the biscuits on an ungreased baking sheet. Brush the tops of the biscuits with a little buttermilk. Bake until puffed and golden-brown, about 12 minutes. Cool. Remove from oven and place on wire rack to cool slightly. Serve fresh from the oven, if possible.