Soba Noodles With Shiitakes, Broccoli and Tofu

Combine stock, soy sauce, rice wine or sherry, sugar and salt to taste in a small bowl. Stir until sugar and salt dissolve. Combine garlic, ginger, and pepper flakes or minced chile in another bowl. Bring a large saucepan or pot of water to a boil, add salt to taste and baby broccoli. As soon as water comes back to a boil (about 1 minute), use a skimmer to remove broccoli and transfer it to a bowl of cold water. Drain in a colander, then on paper towels. Cut stems away from florets and slice about 1/2 inch thick. Bring water back to a boil and cook soba. Drain and toss with 2 teaspoons sesame oil. Place all ingredients within reach of your wok. Heat a 14-inch flat-bottomed wok over high heat until a drop of water evaporates within a second or two when added. Swirl in 1 tablespoon of the oil and add tofu. Stir-fry 1 to 2 minutes, until it begins to color, and remove to a plate. Add remaining oil and garlic, ginger and chile. Stir-fry for no more than 10 seconds and add mushrooms. Stir-fry for 1 minute and add broccoli and the light parts of the scallions. Stir-fry 1 to 2 minutes. Add the noodles, tofu and the stock mixture. Reduce heat to medium and stir-fry 1 to 2 minutes. Add cilantro and the dark green part of the scallions, stir-fry another 30 seconds to a minute, until well combined, and serve. Tip The soba noodles can be cooked up to a day ahead and kept in the refrigerator. They will clump but when you add them to the pan with the broth they will fall apart. The baby broccoli can be blanched a day ahead and refrigerated. The stir-fry is a last-minute dish but the ingredients can be prepped hours ahead and refrigerated, and the leftovers are delicious; they will keep for about 3 days in the refrigerator.